To combat fleas, it
is important to understand their life cycle. There are 4 stages to
the flea life cycle, known as metamorphosis.
The image below
shows a break up of the population of fleas & their life cycle. As
you can see, only 5% are actually adult fleas which would live on
your dog, the remainder are found in the environment in the form of
eggs (50%), larvae (35%) & pupae (10%). It is absolutely
vital to treat both your pet & hour environment (home & garden) if
you are to combat fleas.
1) Adult flea: The
adult flea emerges when it is stimulated by environmental factors
such as vibrations, warmth or breath of the host. The flea can come
out of it's cocoon within seconds of stimulation. The lifespan of an
adult flea is around 2 - 3 months. The adult flea is around 1.5 -
4mm long, and dark brown or black in appearance. Adults suck blood
from their host. Adult fleas begin laying eggs within 36 - 48 hours
of their first blood meal. A female flea consumes up to 15 times her
body weight in blood per day.
2) Egg: At .5mm in
length, flea eggs are barely visible to the human eye, the female
flea lays approximately one egg per hour. The flea egg is whitish,
smooth & dry & easily falls off the coat into the
environment. Flea eggs hatch in around 1 - 10 days, depending on
conditions. Flea eggs & flea droppings are often found together.
When the dog scratches the eggs along with the droppings fall off
the dog. The droppings provide food to the larvae when they hatch.
The eggs & droppings together have the appearance of salt &
pepper.
Environmental
conditions such as humidity, light & temperature determine how
quickly & how many flea larvae hatch from flea eggs. The lower
the temperature, the fewer larvae will hatch. Optimal conditions for
flea larvae to hatch are 70% & higher & temperatures of 21 -
32 degrees C (70 - 89 degrees F).
Flea eggs fall off
the dog when it jumps, scratches, moves & sleeps. Eggs are found
all over the home, but in their highest concentrations in your dog's
preferred spots such as bedding.
3) Larvae: The larvae
are vermiform (maggot like) like in appearance & up to 6mm long,
flea larvae avoid light by residing deep in carpet fibres, under furniture & rugs
& in crevices. At this stage they have no legs or eyes, but have
chewing mouth parts. Flea larvae feed on adult flea excrement,
food debris & dead skin.
4) Pupae: This is the
transition stage between larvae & adult flea. After
approximately 7-18 days the flea larvae pupate. It takes
approximately 7 - 10 days for the larvae to develop into a flea,
although it may be some time before the flea emerges from it's
protective cocoon. They are at their most resilient as pupae,
and resistant to insecticides.
The flea larvae spins
a sticky, protective silken (produced by the saliva of the larvae)
outer cocoon, covered with particles of debris such as dust, hair,
lint etc. The pupae are found in carpet fibres, crevices
etc., and are virtually undetectable.
Dog Flea Treatment:
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There are several
methods of flea control for dogs: These products vary in price &
effectiveness.
Flea collar, shampoo,
flea combs, spray, tablets, powders, insect growth regulators &
topical treatments.
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Flea collars: There
are many different types of flea collar on the market. Some are
insecticide only & work by killing adult fleas on the dog. Other
flea collars contain IGR's to kill the eggs & larvae.
Flea collars often only kill fleas on the dog's head & neck, but
fleas further down the body survive.
Shampoo/Dips: Flea
shampoos contain insecticides which kill adult fleas.
Flea Combs: Flea
combs aren't overly effective, only removing 10 - 50% of fleas on
your dog. If you wish to use this method place a small bowl of water
with some detergent in it close by & drop the fleas into the
bowl. This will drown the fleas. Placing a small amount of petroleum
jelly onto the teeth of the comb will help the fleas stick to it.
Flea Powders: Flea
powders will kill adult fleas on the dog. Powders may cause the
dog's coat to dry out & also may be irritating to the dog's oral
& respiratory mucosa.
Oral
suspensions: ProgramŽ
is given to dogs via an oral suspension once a month. The product is
added to the dog's food & is absorbed into the bloodstream. When
a flea bites a dog treated with Program it ingests the active
ingredient (lufenuron), which is passed to her eggs & prevents
them from hatching. As this product only prevents eggs from
hatching, an appropriate adulticide will also be needed to kill
adult fleas. Seek advice from your veterinarian before using more
than one product on your dog. It is also extremely important to
speak to your veterinarian if you are considering treating a
pregnant or nursing dog. They will be able to recommend the safest
treatment for your dog.
Spot on
treatments: Topical
adulticide. There are several effective products on the market which
are administered via liquid form to the dog's shoulders. These are
available through your veterinarian or online pet product store.
These products are very effective for killing adult fleas on your
dog. The active ingredient varies from product to product.
Applidogion is generally once a month.
When applying a flea
product to a dog it is important to follow the instructions on the
packet to the letter. Dogs are extremely
sensitive to chemicals & if you are using one than one product
your dog may be exposed to too many toxins, resulting in sickness or
death.
Some of the most
effective & popular topical flea control products used on dogs
(and dogs) include Advantage, Revolution & Frontline.
Revolution also kills worms
(except tapeworm), so makes life a bit easier for pet owners, according to the
Bayer site, Advantage
dog flea
control, also kills
flea larvae in the pet's environment too.
Dog Flea Sprays:
There
are some effective dog flea sprays on the market. Frontline make such a spray.
Wear rubber gloves while applying the spray to your dog while ruffling the coat.
Avoid contact with the eyes & mouth.
Warning: Don't ever use flea products designed for other pets on
your dog & ALWAYS follow the dosage chart on the back of the packet.
Treat The Environment:
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Indoors:
To treat the house
& environment you can either hire the services of a professional
pest controller or buy a product from your local supermarket. Most
DIY products come in the form of an aerosol "bomb". Prior
to letting the bomb off you & your pets should temporarily
vadoge the premises. Be aware that flea bombs are toxic to
other animals, so all pets (including fish) need to be removed prior
to bombing.
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IGR's: (insect growth
regulators) disrupt the cycle of the flea. They prevent eggs from
hatching, kill larvae & prevent adult fleas from reproducing.
These most often come in as a bomb/spray.
A pest controller
should be able to spray your house & garden for fleas. It is
important to specify that you have dog(s) living in the house, so
they can use a suitable spray which is safe for pets.
Wash rugs, dog bedding etc., in the hottest possible cycle.
Frequent vaccuming will also remove
fleas & their eggs. One useful tip is to put a flea collar in
your vacuum cleaner bag. When vacuuming, pay extra attention to
corners, skirting boards, under furniture & any other nooks &
crannies. Also vacuum furniture, curtains etc. This is where the
larvae love to hang out, eating dust & debris, so it is vital that
you thoroughly vacuum. Once you have vacuumed, clean out the bag &
dispose of carefully. Ensure that every time you vacuum, you empty
it out to prevent any fleas escaping.
Treat
Outdoors:
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Fleas can
infest your garden & outdoor buildings too, so while you are
treating your dog & house, also pay attention to your garden.
Spray areas your
pet tends to hang out, and if it has bedding in the garden,
bring it in & wash it.
You may wish to
flea bomb any outdoor buildings you have, especially if your dog
hangs out there. |
Long term flea
control
Regular application
of a good quality flea control on your dog is the best method of
flea control. Ensure your dog's bedding is regularly washed.
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